Bělorusko

Cesta na neprostupný východ

Tam daleko na východě, za devatero řekami, horami a jedním pralesem, kde stále vanou sovětské větry, žila byla stěží prostupná země v čele se samozvaným panem diktátorem. Ale jednoho dne se tento diktátor pohádal s jiným panem diktátorem, což bylo tuze smutné. Zvlášť když tento druhý vládce umí jezdit i na medvědovi a skolí bitevní loď jiného království klidně holýma rukama. A tak se první vládce rozhodl, že si pro jistotu bude hledat kamarády i v jiných vládcích a pro začátek lehce pootevře dvířka do království svého. Jen na dva prstíčky. A taky asi chtěl prachy.

Několik let jsem sledoval postupné otevírání západu, protože se mi nechtělo dávat 5000,- za vízum. Až v roce 2017 konečně otevřeli města Hrozno a Brest pozemním návštěvníkům přes Polsko. Jde to relativně po másle. Na internetu se vyřídí za malý poplatek vstup. Něco jako ESTA při cestě do USA. Z Varšavy je třeba vzít vlak do Terespolu (Od roku 2020 prý bude přímá linka Česko-Terespol s leem) a celníkům ukázat vytisknutý papír z netu. Na tom není co pokazit. Tedy snad…

Na polské straně hranice ve mně už trochu hrklo. Okna zatlučená dřevem, aby nebylo vidět na druhou stranu. Celá stanice vypadala sbitá hodně podomácku. Všude celníci s puškama. Vracím se zpátky o 50 let. Už se mi tam tak nechtělo. O chvíli později jsem už ale seděl ve vlaku přes hranice. Projížděli jsme pásmem z ostnatých drátů při zamračené obloze. Do vagónu mezitím přišli celníci a mluvili pouze svým jazykem, zatímco všichni cestující vytáhli své pasy. Všechny byly modré, běloruské. Jsem tady jediný turista. Po otázce na vízum vytahuju A4 vytištěnou z tiskárny a celník na ni jen nevěřícně kouká. Jak asi vypadá místní výslech?

S kroucením hlavy mi papír po několika minutách vrací zpátky. Musím být jeden z prvních turistů přijíždějících na bezvízový styk (tohle se mi zopakovalo ještě asi dvakrát). Silnější celnice najednou rozkrajuje pečlivě budované napětí sovětské atmosféry tím, že na celý vagón začne hulákat, ať se přizná, kdo veze něco k proclení a strašně se u toho směje. Kdo ví, třeba si jen stáhla několik flašek vodky a stejně mě čekají obušky.

Zastavujeme v Brestu, asi 200m od parku. Slunce najednou strašně praží a obloha je celá modrá. Musím se před ním schovat do parku. V něm se konečně rozkoukávám kolem sebe, když se najednou musím vyhýbat nějakým předtím neviděným high-tech udělátkům, na kterých se prohánějí místní děti. Zkrácené a rychlejší segwaye? Všichni jsou navíc místo šedé oblečení v pestrých barvách. Co je tohle za místo? Byl jsem podveden. Kde je stereotyp zlé, šedé komunistické země z amerického filmu? Lidi, kteří mě oberou o poslední kabát jako Toma Hankse v Mostě špiónů?

Evropská exotika

Bylo to v mnohém podobné a přesto v různých ohledech jiné. Hlavní ulice byla jak z typického evropského města. Centrum vypadalo svoji atmosférou francouzštěji než Paříž. Teda až na ty žebrající děti (byl jsem drsňák a nic jim nedal). O pár kilometrů dál se ve vojenském muzeu člověk ale už propadl do východní minulosti. Tou s rudými vlajkami, srpy a kladivy, plátěnými taškami, nebo s podobiznami Lenina. Vchod do parku je ve tvaru pěticípé hvězdy, z reproduktorů se linou sovětské chorály, a vedle něj děti lezou po sovětských tancích.

Bělorusko ale nezamrzlo technologicky (narozdíl od některých balkánských zemí). Ty mini-segwaye z parku jsem mimo Bělorusko viděl poprvé až o rok později na veletrhu v Praze. Hostel měl rychlé a stabilní wi-fi, bez drsné cenzury, kterou jsem zažil později v Číně. Smartphony jsem neviděl docela dlouho, až do momentu kdy kolem projel trabant obtěžkaný velkými reproduktory a lidi je se smíchem vytáhli, aby si je mohlil vyfotit. Mají je, ale nekoukají do nich. Podobně jako na Ukrajině se v restauracích a hospodách lidé raději baví mezi sebou.

Centrum města je dokonale čisté. V Bělorusku platí stále zákon o příživnictví, a tak se lidé, kteří se neuplatní jinde, dokonale realizují třeba v technických službách. Kdybych upustil papírek na zem, hned je u mě někdo s černým pytlem, kdo se o něj postará. Čištění je prostě běloruský sport. Všechen bordel zmizí jako opozice.

Auta zpomalují ještě 50 metrů od přechodu a pouští vždy. Chodec je tady vnímán až s takovým posvátným respektem, že to vypadá, jakoby státní aparát měl pověsit hříšného automobilistu i s celou jeho rodinou, pokud jednou někoho nepustí. U prodavaček to už bylo ale půl na půl. Ta první půlka byla vždy usměvavá, pomáhala mi jak to šlo a vždy všechno vracela, ta druhá byla taková… no řekněme kyselá jako déšť plný síry.

Ve městě je, zdá se, jen jediný hostel. Obsluha samozřejmě anglicky neumí. Maximálně jsem pochopil, že se mnou bude na pokoji motorkářská banda. Určitě se ožerou a pak mě jako osamělého cestovatele narvou do výfuku. Namakaní borci se však místo toho představili a večer šli ohleduplně do hospody, aby nerušili ostatní návštěvníky a ráno se první probuzení tišili navzájem, aby náhodou nevzbudili všechny lehké spáče.

Brest bude v roce 2019 slavit 1000 let vzniku. Oslavy byly znát už teď. Podařilo se mi ten víkend chytit jeden z výročních festivalů, s místními kroji a folklórem. Lidové písně postupně střídaly cover verze slavných hitů jako jsou Hvězdné války nebo Indiana Jones. Lidé tleskali a tančili do rytmu. Poprvé jsem spatřil jiné turisty. Těch 10 vysmátých asiatů aranžujících se na selfie tak nějak nešlo přehlédnout. Já bohužel svoje fotky z Běloruska ztratil. Navštívil jsem po něm totiž Karvinu.

Život tady vypadá jak ze starších filmů. Viděl jsem lidi tancovat na ulici. Dvě babky tam spolu rozjížděly flamenco. V průtrži mračen vyběhly děti skoro nahé si užít deště. Lidé si užívají a nemusí u toho koukat do mobilů. Sympatické místo na ježdění. Dokud mají v místních podnicích wi-fi pro zkažené zápaďáky.

Brest je hrdé město. Táhne se to s nimi už od doby, co jako první sovětské město chvíli odolávali nacistům. A na počest toho se dnes dá strávit v místních muzeích i několik dní. Samozřejmě zůstává otázkou, jak vypadá skutečné Bělorusko a ne jenom to, co vybrali jako bezvízovou zónu. Mě osobně ale Brest nadchnul a vracet se asi budu nějakou dobu rád. Navíc je národním jídlem bramborák.

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