San Marino + Monako

Dát si za cíl navštívit všechny země Evropy do 30. narozenin má svá úskalí. Jedno z nich jsou mikrostáty. Vlivem zvláštního historického vývoje se čas od času objeví kus skály, který si nárokuje právo nazývat se státem. Člověk si pak musí brát spoustu dovolené, aby se mu povedlo se na tato místa podívat před svou smrtí aspoň jednou.

Při mých toulkách Evropou jsem se naučil moc neplánovat. Nikdy jsem to nedělal nijak detailně, tentokrát jsem jen rámcově udělal nějaké rezervace na hostelech. Jenže i tak to bylo trochu moc. Ryanair prostě zrušil svůj let. Ani ne 24 hodin před odletem. V pondělí, s náhradním letem v pátek. Hlavně nepanikařit. Na jih ten den letěl pouze jediný let: do Pisy. Už je to rok, miluju návraty. Zvlášť když je tam tou dobou spousta mých kamarádů. Náhoda? Nemyslím si.

Tou dobou v Pise probíhal evropský kongres v go. Což znamenalo vidět staré kamarády, mít kde spát a případně si udělat nové (abyste je pak třeba mohli vzít s sebou do Moldávie). Ty pohledy, když jsem se vynořil, aniž by to kdokoliv čekal, byly k nezaplacení.

Monako

SM a Monako jsou dva naprosto odlišné světy. Tak moc, jak jen snad v našich končinách můžou být. Zářivé Monako hýřící bohatstvím, drahým oblečením a auty většími, než můj pokoj v Londýně. A klidné San Marino bez aut, vznášející se skoro až v oblacích. Protože mě osobně více za srdce chytilo SM, tak začnu Monakem, kam jede z Itálie vlak v některých úsecích přímo po pobřeží, asi metr od azurového moře.

Monako je synonymem opulence. Představuje zhmotnění všech stereotypů o Americe z cestovatelského seriálu Dallas. V mikině a tričku jsem byl za šupáka. Proti tvorbě vražedných puchýřků vás chrání pouliční výtahy, kterou jezdí mezi jednotlivými úrovněmi skály, na nichž je celé město vybudované. Na večeři si místní dávají zlato, což jsem vydedukoval podle místní skladby prodejen. Protože nejsem na takovou stravu jako nemonačan stavěný, skočil jsem si na potraviny do supermarketu ve Francii. Není to daleko, Monako je 2. nejmenší země světa. Hned po tom náměstí, kterému velí chlápek se špičatým kloboukem. Občas jen trochu brzdí fakt, že se člověk může pohybovat pouze do 2 směrů, protože vlevo a vpravo jsou moře a skála (nebo naopak).

Večer se jela přehlídka. Lidé se sešli před kasíny a kolem nich se promenádovala auta, na které bych si vydělal pouze vykradením banky. Bohatství je přítomné na každém kroku. Nízké daně sem lákají milionáře z celého světa. Jenže nedostatek prostoru je staví do nepříjemné pozice. Na 4 kilometrech čtverečních už není kde stavět a domy se musí buď bourat nebo věžáky postavit ještě vyšší. Nebo zaplatit ještě vyšší nájem a vykopnout tím chudšího milionáře zpátky do jeho chatrče. Docela by mi dávalo smysl, kdyby se místní složili a postavili modulární příbytky na moři. Ale to by asi cenu jejich nemovitostí snížilo.

Hlavním tahákem je ale kasino (sorry MotoGP). Neměl jsem v plánu tam jít, ale místní mají, zdá se, svoje způsoby. V suvenýrech prý už známky neprodávají. Ty jsou prý jenom v dárkových předmětech uvnitř kasina, těsně před vchodem do hrací místnosti. Tam mi ale nechtěli vzít kartu. Žádný problém. Přímo v herně je prý bankomat. Nebylo zbytí. Doběhnu k prvnímu a zase vypadnu. Ten byl mimo provoz. Pomocník kasina mě ale informuje, že funkční je přímo uprostřed tohoto celého molochu. No jasně, jenom projdu kolem asi 100 automatů a her nejrůznějších druhů a témat, abych měl asi 1000 možností se na nějaký přilepit. Obchod je obchod a přesvědčovací schopnosti Derrena Browna hadra.

San Marino

San Marino naopak je úplně jiné. Spousta přírody, klasičtější architektury a stoupání výš a výš, jak se člověk pomalu blíží do jeho hlavního města. Tentokrát to není pouze jedno město, ale asi 9 okresů. Na seznamu nejmenších států světa se pyšní číslovkou 5. Dojet se dá pohodlně autobusem ze slavného Rimini, kde jsem se mohl na chvíli smočit. Po tom, co jsem schoval oblečení v křoví, protože moře je sice papírově zdarma, ale skříňky nebo lehátko jsou za patřičný mastný poplatek. A místní jsou v jejich vnucování dost neodbytní.

Většina okresů je jenom stoupání. Směrem k centru jedete pořád výš a výš. Jenže jako by toho stoupání nebylo dost, v Borgo Maggiore se najednou vztyčí ohromná skála, kterou nejde prostě vyjít nebo vylézt. Člověk se musí pořádně zaklonit, aby viděl "zámek v oblacích". Aby viděl hlavní město - San Marino. Aristokracie se tady mohla od svých poddaných oprostit dokonale. Nahoru to beru lanovkou. Tohle zní jako dobrý důvod, proč se tuhle část nikdy nepovedlo anektovat Itálií.

Ulice jsou úzké, různě stoupají nebo se točí. V dávných dobách, nezničených turismem, kdy místo klenotnictví a obchodů s oblečením bývaly pekárny a řeznictví, to muselo být vskutku krásné místo k žití.

Karmická stopa v Bologně a Janově

Podle některých kamarádů nosím smůlu. Odmítám to s tím, že některé věci se na cestách prostě stávat musí. Všechno je v rámci statistiky a ochotě hledat vzorce tam kde nejsou. Nicméně Bologna a Janov to tentokrát celkem schytali.

Bologna byla místo mého odletu a měl jsem tam strávit můj poslední den v Itálii. Při mém příjezdu jsem zaregistroval incident, kdy chemická cisterna narazila do auta, které mělo začít hořet. V internetových novinách to začalo gradovat rychle. Pak to bylo více aut. Pak ta auta začala vybuchovat. Pak okolní domy kvůli plynovým bombám. Některé blízké obchody. Prostě Kobra 11 styl. Po asi hodině vyvrcholení celého šíleného ohňostroje vybuchla ta cisterna a rozmetala celé okolí. Včetně mostu, který se následně zhroutil. Mé letiště bylo přesně tím směrem.

Autobusové spoje nějak nechtěly jezdit, tak jsem šel pěšky. Dal jsem si dostatečnou rezervu, ale policisté mě různě odkláněli. Čas na odlet se krátil. Nakonec jsem našel uličku při útěku před prostitutkami z Afriky. Díky, na HIV dnes nemám náladu. Chci jen dojít na letiště. Najednou zdravotníci. Nakládali černé pytle s těly. Za nimi zhroucený most. Měl jsem dost. Vedle letiště stál vojenský objekt. Zespodu byla vidět jen hlídkovací věž. V ní helma, která se otáčela za mnou. Nic příjemného. Pokud by prst na spoušti zasvrběl, jedno tělo by se v noci plné mrtvol ztratilo. Na tenhle den nevzpomínám rád.

V Janově jsem strávil půl dne ještě před San Marinem. Bohužel se mi moc fotek nedochovalo. Na městě jsem obdivoval vchody do paneláků často vedoucí střechou z okolních kopců, namísto klasicky spodem. Odjížděl jsem s dobrým pocitem zajímavého města. Po týdnu se tam zhroutil most. Asi špatná karma.

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